A Visit in Mitzpeh Ramon

As dusk was falling, Deborah and Hagai and I drove north from Eilat, where we had crossed the border back into Israel from Jordan. It was mid-January, and it was full dark when we arrived in the courtyard outside the home of Yoni, Bob’s youngest son, and his wife Shoshana. After a few brief greetings we made our way quickly to the Ramon Inn, where we partook of their generous buffet dinner.

Bob’s youngest son, Yoni (foreground) and Yoni’s youngest son, Hagai
Shoshana and Deborah looking at pictures of Jordan on D.’s phone

Then we went back to Yoni and Shoshana’s cozy home, where the wood fire was burning merrily. The conversation, sadly but inevitably, turned to the death of my sister-in-law, Yoni and Deborah’s aunt, Phyllis. There were many details of the estate to think about, and all at long distance. Nonetheless, we were all glad to be together, I think.

Family resemblance…?
Deborah, Shoshana, and Yoni look at photos of Jordan
This one reminds me of a Renaissance painting — the Annunciation of the Photograph. Deborah’s hand looks suspiciously like God’s in “The Creation of Adam” by Michelangelo”…

At last Deborah and I made our way to the bed and breakfast where we customarily stay in Mitzpeh Ramon, Bayit HaMidbar (Desert Home). I have stayed here a number of times — on my own, with Deborah, and with Ariel. It’s a comfortable place, set up so that if you wanted you could stay several days and cook for yourself. Deborah and I unfolded the sofa bed and made it up for her — she was kind enough to grant me the bed itself. I was asleep in no time, but she sat up late again, dealing with emails and phone calls related to the estate. I don’t have pictures of Bayit HaMidbar from this trip, but here are some from previous visits:

View from the upstairs balcony. We actually stayed in a first floor room this time.
The last time I stayed here, a Bedouin girl road past in the morning with her flocks. They seemed to be looking for green plants growing where there is water outflow from the town. Yoni also reported that the bring the flocks into town and eat the municipal plantings. He was incensed, but I confess, this form of quiet guerilla warfare rather amuses me. In the evening, the girl rode past again — yaking on her cellphone.

In the morning we received the ample breakfast for which this place is known. They bring a huge tray of home-made jams, fresh exotic fruits, various salads, whole grain cereal flakes, halvah, labneh (like very thick Greek yoghurt with zatar — hyssop seasoning — and olive oil) and local cheeses. Then they bring a loaf of home-made warm whole wheat bread, and a carafe of orange juice. In the small fridge there are eggs to cook, and milk. Yoni and Shoshana can’t eat any of this because they are concerned about kashrut, but we invited Hagai to join us, as it is too much food for two people!

Our original plan had been to possibly go to Masada, but Shoshana and Yoni offered to take us out for a “Walk”, which turned out to be a long drive and a hike to the edge of the Machtesh — the canyon where Mitzpeh Ramon is located. On the way, we passed the plot where Yon and Shoshana are growing argan trees (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Argania), but we didn’t stop, as they said the “farm” is not in great shape right now. We did stop by the side of the road to look for wild plants, are here is some of what we saw:

Desert Sunrose
These are the flowers we saw growing in great abundance by the side of the road on the way down to Eilat.
Tiny wild Calendula — this photo is about life size
Israel has a million different yellow compositae — I think this is Jaffa Groundsel
The white flowers are Chamomile
Great Storksbill (an Erodium — a form of wild geranium)
Hoary-leaved Heronsbill (an Erodium — a form of wild geranium)
Astragalus (yes, like what you find in herbal mixtures for hormonal issues, etc.)
I’ve pored over lists of Israeli wild flowers for an hour,but still can’t identify this one. I think it’s a bulb of some kind.
Looking for plants with Shoshana is always fun. She is experimentally-minded — she takes things home and makes tinctures.
Bladder-senna — a shrub

We drove onward, turning off the main road and bumping over a dirt road that is supposed to be usable by tourists — but I would be sorry for anyone who took anything other than a Jeep or Land Rover on this stony washed out trail! At the end of the road we parked and walk up to the lookout over the Mashtesh. We ate our lunch as we admired the view.

Compared to the colors of the Wadi Rum in Jordan, this is a less vivid landscape, but still full of visual interest. It’s a geologist’s dream — numerous geological periods are represented in the machtesh.
The blackish hills are eruptions from volcanic action
Deboroh contrives to look stylish even in the desert.
If you look down, even in the most seemingly barren setting, you find spring flowers. This is a bulb — Latin name Gagea (after a Professor Gage), sometimes known as Star of Bethlehem.
This is Desert Sage. I love the fuzziness of many desert plants.
I wasted another hour trying to track down the identity of this one. There are numerous yellow compositae in Israel, but I couldn’t locate this one. The leaves are so interesting.

The afternoon was wearing on toward evening when we finally left Yoni and Shoshana and set off back to Jerusalem. It had been a good visit, and a good trip all around.

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